Farm Diesel mods(how to bring up HP and toure #s)

[shakes_nig_rig]

first off you need to know if you want more HP and tourke or more fule economey. you can do most of these mods to any oil burnner but be WAREND that in older tracters(pre turbo time) that some will definitly not work or brake seious parts fast. The chepist in the short run for more power is to turn up your injecton pump and git biger injectors if they willl fit. but this will drimaticly make it smoke that deep black smoke all the time. The next is to up grade or add your turbo( this will add some serious HP if you didnt have one but also brake stuf like crankshafts and conecting rods becous the stuf wasnt built to take that amount of power). if you alredy had a turbo just git a biger turbo but there are limits to where the turbos whil add HP. the larger the turbo the higer RPM you have to run to git it to spin and create boost. so yes there is such a thing as to big of a turbo. I will poste moer info later on this subject.

[greasemonkey]

ok now with u saying that when u added a straight pipe to one of you tractors. this comes from my father (21 yrs in the air foce as a diesel mechganic) a diesel will NOT gain any power unless the muffler is really resticted, diesel mufflers are not resticted at all. and you CANNOT add a turbo to a diesel that was not made witha turbo because the motor was not desinged to have a turbo the motor was built and is fien the way it is. if ya want more power you need to tweak the injector pump and get new tips onthe injectors themselves.( about $75 for a 35 hp increase witch is 25% over stock) a properly modded diesel will last(truck wise) up too 600,00 mile before needeing a complete rebuild witch consists of new pistons sleaves rinngs crank bearing s(turn the crank if needed), valves, valve seals and everything else you would need. a proper diesel rebuild will cost you betwenn $500 all the way up to $6,000 there is a mininmum of a $1.000 machine shop service fee due to the fact that diesels have sleves and you CANNOT bore a diesel out... o and yeah a smaller turbo housing will improve response on a diesel the biger the turbo the slower the response will be...if yall wanna check a great turbo diesel forum out ( basicaly dodge diesel forum) but they are soem really smart pl that think and kno the same stuff me and my father kno the website is www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/index.php
so check it out if ya want..

[shakes_nig_rig]

i agree with you in the injecters but not on most of the other stuf. i alredy sead a larger turbo will neeed to have the engen run higher so it creates enough boost and that there is a limit to the size of turbo you can add. and yes we have documented profe that steght pips add power. now you are talking about like 4+ inch exaust where as the ones im taking about are most of the time 3inches. and yes if we worked the sh!t out ove every thing every day that we use it it wont carbon up and become constrictive. my dads 7020 turbocharged and intercooled 649-I moter(301CID). it has a 13x5 inch mufler with 4 inch inlet and 3 inch outlet. we had a new muffler put on it when it was rebuilt and it had 132HP. we took it home and put a streght pipe on it for s iots and giggles and used out budys dino(he’s a tractor puller) without any changes to the tractor (other than les fule in the tank) it jumped up to 143HP. now if that isnt profe i dont know what is the whole thing with stragt pipes v muflers nomater what mufler or how good it is there is still restrictive making it so the turbo cant spin as easy. in order to deten sound it has to restrict a litle. now on the not being able to add a turbo to a non turbo engen i take it that you are thinkin about keping the same fule setings. but if you do it yourself you can add a turbo toa any engen jist that it cant be az big as if the engen were built with a turbo in minde. if you git a turbo the right size you can build adapters to your air inducton system and eagzast to power the turbo. granted you would only want to mabey add 20-30 hp but that is pushing it most of the time it is to increse fule economy. such as from 7 galons a houer to 5 with the same HP. but if your BMEP is too high eather way you will brake parts. and your dad should know what BEMP is and i would expect you to post what it is to see what you and your dad know. now im not saying that you should try and achieve very much output over what you can do with just turning the pump up. But you can although the motor will not last very long. Basically what im saying is more flow and the easier you can get air in and out the better the engine will perform. According to a book I have (a Guide to Allis-Chalmers Farm Tractors By Norm Swinford {Tractor Preformance and Testing [math your tractor understands]}). To calculate torque: HP x 5,252 / RPM = torque, to calculate BEMP: torque x 150.5 / cubic inches = BEMP. The ratio of fule to air that provides compete burning of the hydrocarbons in the fuel and all of the oxygen in the air is called the stoichiometric ratio. For a gasoline engine this ratio is 15 parts air (by weight) to 1 part gasoline. In a diesel the ratio is 18 parts air to 1 part fuel. Since the density or weight of air is only approximately.0015 pound per cubic foot, 12000 cubicfeet of air are required to competel burn just 1 pound of diesel fule, or 84,000 cubic feet for 1 gallon.

[greasemonkey]

well i suck at math...a diesel sucks in as much air as it can all the time..well u have one prob..alis chalber(sp) tractors are the worst tractor to have. in my opionon(sp) thats why u had a hp gain. the smaler the turbo housing the fast and more pressure the turbo will create becouse it is pushing more air in whitch creates alomost no lag. the larger the turbo yes the more air it will push but it will take a lil longer to spool up and yes it does create more boost in the long run. i am used to truck diesel engines.i really dont mess with traoctor ones ther are set up a lil bit differetn than truck ones.according to my father.i really let him to all the deccisions. on the tracktor .were u recording PTO hp or the HP right off of the motor itself? but yeah u are correct on the turbo thing ona non turbo diesel if yeah can find monifold that will take the pressure of the turbo. i think the smallest turbo diesel engine will at least produce a minimum of 20 lbs of boost. that why when ya have a turbo diesel you should put a boost gauge, pyro meter(exhaust temp) am most definalty a tach(most diesel come with tachs unless its like on older vehicle. but still the most effective and economical way to help out torque and hp ona diesel if always gunna be new injectors and a tweaked injector pump(onthe non-computert controlled diesels) and if the engine is computert controlled( for cummins its 1998.5 and after they are all computer controlled) is to get a person thet is a reputable diesel mechaninc who has the programs and saoftware to get the engine exactly were you want it( my father is trying to buy saftware fom cummins to do that with the computer in the garage) the software will run ya about $500 just to do ISB series cummin engines. but i think just like all mechanics and other ppl in the same correr feilds all of them have different opinions on everything.i am just goin by what i have been taught and learned and you are goin by whta you are taght and learned..i think me and u could have this argument foe e-ons and we will still be running over eachother..why the hell dont we just become friends instead of enimies cuz in case one of us has to ask a >?<, to the other we will do it without bitchen at each other.

[greasemonkey]

and if ya love diesel as much as i do i know you love the smel of the smoke and the looks of it when the diesel is under a load.

[MX588]

yeah you guys can post about this stuff all you want, just dont start fighting, reason with eachother and listen to what people say before getting pissed. This forum isnt gonna be like mx.com. I will delete posts that are offensive to anyone, just for the fact that the 2 most posting members shouldnt fight.

[shakes_nig_rig]

ya most days i try to git az close to the bus e and the stack on the loder tracter to git the smell.

[shakes_nig_rig]

now on our tractors 90% of the work is done at above 1500 rpm, about 50% is done at about 2500 rpm so we want larger turbos on our equitment so they start kiking in at around 1200 rpm. now with trucks you want the turbo to kik in almost right away. we take the dino runs at the PTO not at the flywheel.

[MX588]

most of my dirtbikes work is done at about 10,000 RPM...and the peak is 13,400...beat that for high performance