Post by Master Yoda on Aug 29, 2005 9:18:37 GMT -5
Now I know that most of you will say I already knew that...
Some of you will say I knew that while printing out a copy to tape to the inside cover of your tool box.
Well this is for the ones that don't know anything about anything.
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Tip # 1 Chain Adjusting
After you have set your chain adjuster bolts and are ready to tighten the rear axle, stick bunched up rag or towel between the chain and the rear sprocket teeth. Back the rear wheel up until it binds and then tighten the axle nuts. The wedged-in sprocket will pull the wheel all the way forward. It is also a good idea to use a chain alignment tool. The stock axel blocks are not an accurate indicator of proper chain aligment.
Tip # 2 Master Link Position
Always put the master link clip on so that the open end of the clip is not aimed in the direction of rotation. If the open end is aimed forward, the clip can catch on the chain guide, roots, or debris and pop off.
Tip # 3 Axle Care
When changing your rear wheel, stick your axle into the core of your bike's silencer. This way, the threads wont get dirty or damaged.
Tip # 4 Stud Removal
To remove cylinder studs from your cylinder, you can thread two nuts on to the stud and lock them together, then put your wrench on the lower nut and back the stud out of the cases.
Tip # 5 Rear Brake Pads
You don't have to remove the rear wheel on your bike to the change the brake pads. Pull the brake pins and pads will fall out with just a little coaxing.
Tip # 6 Bleed Your Forks
Heat, change of altitude and a hard moto session are just a few reasons that air pressure build up happens in your forks. The increase in air pressure will make your forks more stiff. Take the time to loosen the bleed screw on top of your fork legs to let the trapped air out.
Tip # 7 Hose Prep.
Spray or lightly coat the inside of coolant hoses with silicone before reinstalling the hoses. This makes assembly and disassembly easier...and don't over tighten the hose clamps.
Tip # 8 Air Screw
The air screw really only tells you if you are running the correct pilot jet. If your bike runs fine with the air screw turned all the way in you need a bigger pilot. If it runs fine with the air screw turned all the way out you need a smaller pilot.
Tip # 9 Breaking A Bead
Breaking the bead when changing a tire is really simple if you do it right. Simply push one tire iron down on a knob on the sidewall while pulling the other one up towards you.
Tip # 10 Rim Strip
Scrap the stock rubber rim strip. Use a thin layer of duct tape instead. This will prevent unwanted flats from loose nipples.
Tip # 11 Tube Lock Nut
Tighten the tubes lock nut against its valve cap instead of against the rim. If the tube shifts at all during riding, it can pull the valve from the tube, causing an instant flat. Or Honda has a rubber grommet that will keep dirt out of your tire and still allow the valve stem to move.
Tip # 12 Save A Perch or Lever or Both
By rapping the handlebar with Teflon tape where you intend to mount your brake and clutch levers you will save a few broken levers and maybe a perch. The key here is apply a thin layer of Teflon tape and tighten the perch enough so you can adjust it with the pressure from you hand. Do not use the T-handle death grip here.
Tip # 13 Clean the air filter
Clean and oil the air filter every time you ride in dusty conditions. Even if you don't ride in dusty conditions, check to see the oil hasn't settled to the bottom of the filter. your bike will run better, and the engine will feel fresher and tighter for a longer period of time.
Tip # 14 Seat Cover
While you want to be able to move back and forth on the seat cover for optimum body positioning, you don't want to slip around every time you open or shut the throttle. Most standard seat covers offer little traction when wet, so the wise rider will invest in a gripper seat cover to save energy and avoid monkey butt. Before installing any seat cover spray the underside with Kiwi Camp Dry (Scotch guard will work, too) which helps keep water from getting to the foam, extending it's life substantially.
Tip # 15 Tire Pressure
This may not seem like the most important tip in the world to you, but we beg to differ. Keeping a constant watch on your bikes tire pressure is more important than anything else on your bike except mixing the gas with premix. You should check your tire pressure every time before you ride. We recommend running 14 psi in the front and 12 psi in the rear.
Tip # 16 Check Those Spokes!
Checking the spokes on any bike is important, but you need to pay a little extra attention when the bike is brand new. For at least a few rides the spokes will loosen up on a constant basis. If you don't want out of round wheels we suggest you tighten them regularly. We suggest using the Fasst company spoke torque wrench to keep you wheels in good shape.
Tip # 17 Having Trouble Starting Your Yamha YZF? Here are the step-by-step instructions as explained by Doug Dubach, Four-Stroke Motocross Champion and Yamaha test rider. These helpful tips will ensure quick and easy starting of your Yamaha four-stroke motorcycle.
COLD ENGINE STARTING:
1. Make sure the bike has fuel, then turn on fuel petcock.
2. Pull out choke knob (black knob on left side of the carburetor).
3. Prime the engine by giving the throttle two full turns (only if the bike has not been started in a day or two).
4. Apply firm pressure to the kick-starter with your foot until you hit distinct resistance (this is the compression stroke/hard spot).
5. While keeping pressure on the kick-starter, pull in the compression release lever and push the kick-starter past the compression stroke/hard spot. The kick-starter needs to only move about 1 to 2 inches past the hard spot. That is all!
6. Release the compression release lever and return the kick-starter to the top
7. Now, kick to start. Do not touch the throttle, as the engine will start and idle on it's own
8. If the bike does not start, repeat steps 4 through 7 only until the engine starts.
HOT ENGINE STARTING
1. Pull out the hot start knob (red knob on the left side of the carburetor).
2. Follow steps 4 through 7 until engine starts.
3. You may have to apply some throttle after the engine starts until you get the hot start knob pushed back in because the carburetor is sending a lean mixture while the hot start knob is out.
The only difference between hot and cold starting is which knob you use, choke or hot start. There is no need to deviate from these simple steps. Remember, DO NOT touch the throttle during hot or cold starting. Also, there is no reason to prime the engine again on the same day of riding.
OTHER HELPFUL TIPS
It helps to become comfortable with steps 4 through 7. By becoming familiar with these steps you will become more efficient and will be able to perform them quicker. The faster you can get through steps 4 through 7 the quicker you will get going.
You need to give the engine what it wants! Understand that the choke will give the engine a rich mixture and the hot start will give the engine a lean mixture. If you have kicked the engine several times during a cold starting procedure and it still won't start, maybe it has too much fuel. Don't be afraid to push the choke back in and use the hot start, even though the engine is cold, this will give the engine a lean mixture and that might be just what it wants.
Again, make sure you don't go more than an inch or two past the hard spot when setting up your kick, and return the kick tarter all the way to the top, especially on the 250F. This will ensure that you get a proper kick and make your race day more enjoyable.
Tip # 18 Save your grips
By putting a nickel inside the handle bar grip before putting the grip on saves the edge of the grip by giving it a flatter surface when it digs in the dirt during a fall.
Some of you will say I knew that while printing out a copy to tape to the inside cover of your tool box.
Well this is for the ones that don't know anything about anything.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tip # 1 Chain Adjusting
After you have set your chain adjuster bolts and are ready to tighten the rear axle, stick bunched up rag or towel between the chain and the rear sprocket teeth. Back the rear wheel up until it binds and then tighten the axle nuts. The wedged-in sprocket will pull the wheel all the way forward. It is also a good idea to use a chain alignment tool. The stock axel blocks are not an accurate indicator of proper chain aligment.
Tip # 2 Master Link Position
Always put the master link clip on so that the open end of the clip is not aimed in the direction of rotation. If the open end is aimed forward, the clip can catch on the chain guide, roots, or debris and pop off.
Tip # 3 Axle Care
When changing your rear wheel, stick your axle into the core of your bike's silencer. This way, the threads wont get dirty or damaged.
Tip # 4 Stud Removal
To remove cylinder studs from your cylinder, you can thread two nuts on to the stud and lock them together, then put your wrench on the lower nut and back the stud out of the cases.
Tip # 5 Rear Brake Pads
You don't have to remove the rear wheel on your bike to the change the brake pads. Pull the brake pins and pads will fall out with just a little coaxing.
Tip # 6 Bleed Your Forks
Heat, change of altitude and a hard moto session are just a few reasons that air pressure build up happens in your forks. The increase in air pressure will make your forks more stiff. Take the time to loosen the bleed screw on top of your fork legs to let the trapped air out.
Tip # 7 Hose Prep.
Spray or lightly coat the inside of coolant hoses with silicone before reinstalling the hoses. This makes assembly and disassembly easier...and don't over tighten the hose clamps.
Tip # 8 Air Screw
The air screw really only tells you if you are running the correct pilot jet. If your bike runs fine with the air screw turned all the way in you need a bigger pilot. If it runs fine with the air screw turned all the way out you need a smaller pilot.
Tip # 9 Breaking A Bead
Breaking the bead when changing a tire is really simple if you do it right. Simply push one tire iron down on a knob on the sidewall while pulling the other one up towards you.
Tip # 10 Rim Strip
Scrap the stock rubber rim strip. Use a thin layer of duct tape instead. This will prevent unwanted flats from loose nipples.
Tip # 11 Tube Lock Nut
Tighten the tubes lock nut against its valve cap instead of against the rim. If the tube shifts at all during riding, it can pull the valve from the tube, causing an instant flat. Or Honda has a rubber grommet that will keep dirt out of your tire and still allow the valve stem to move.
Tip # 12 Save A Perch or Lever or Both
By rapping the handlebar with Teflon tape where you intend to mount your brake and clutch levers you will save a few broken levers and maybe a perch. The key here is apply a thin layer of Teflon tape and tighten the perch enough so you can adjust it with the pressure from you hand. Do not use the T-handle death grip here.
Tip # 13 Clean the air filter
Clean and oil the air filter every time you ride in dusty conditions. Even if you don't ride in dusty conditions, check to see the oil hasn't settled to the bottom of the filter. your bike will run better, and the engine will feel fresher and tighter for a longer period of time.
Tip # 14 Seat Cover
While you want to be able to move back and forth on the seat cover for optimum body positioning, you don't want to slip around every time you open or shut the throttle. Most standard seat covers offer little traction when wet, so the wise rider will invest in a gripper seat cover to save energy and avoid monkey butt. Before installing any seat cover spray the underside with Kiwi Camp Dry (Scotch guard will work, too) which helps keep water from getting to the foam, extending it's life substantially.
Tip # 15 Tire Pressure
This may not seem like the most important tip in the world to you, but we beg to differ. Keeping a constant watch on your bikes tire pressure is more important than anything else on your bike except mixing the gas with premix. You should check your tire pressure every time before you ride. We recommend running 14 psi in the front and 12 psi in the rear.
Tip # 16 Check Those Spokes!
Checking the spokes on any bike is important, but you need to pay a little extra attention when the bike is brand new. For at least a few rides the spokes will loosen up on a constant basis. If you don't want out of round wheels we suggest you tighten them regularly. We suggest using the Fasst company spoke torque wrench to keep you wheels in good shape.
Tip # 17 Having Trouble Starting Your Yamha YZF? Here are the step-by-step instructions as explained by Doug Dubach, Four-Stroke Motocross Champion and Yamaha test rider. These helpful tips will ensure quick and easy starting of your Yamaha four-stroke motorcycle.
COLD ENGINE STARTING:
1. Make sure the bike has fuel, then turn on fuel petcock.
2. Pull out choke knob (black knob on left side of the carburetor).
3. Prime the engine by giving the throttle two full turns (only if the bike has not been started in a day or two).
4. Apply firm pressure to the kick-starter with your foot until you hit distinct resistance (this is the compression stroke/hard spot).
5. While keeping pressure on the kick-starter, pull in the compression release lever and push the kick-starter past the compression stroke/hard spot. The kick-starter needs to only move about 1 to 2 inches past the hard spot. That is all!
6. Release the compression release lever and return the kick-starter to the top
7. Now, kick to start. Do not touch the throttle, as the engine will start and idle on it's own
8. If the bike does not start, repeat steps 4 through 7 only until the engine starts.
HOT ENGINE STARTING
1. Pull out the hot start knob (red knob on the left side of the carburetor).
2. Follow steps 4 through 7 until engine starts.
3. You may have to apply some throttle after the engine starts until you get the hot start knob pushed back in because the carburetor is sending a lean mixture while the hot start knob is out.
The only difference between hot and cold starting is which knob you use, choke or hot start. There is no need to deviate from these simple steps. Remember, DO NOT touch the throttle during hot or cold starting. Also, there is no reason to prime the engine again on the same day of riding.
OTHER HELPFUL TIPS
It helps to become comfortable with steps 4 through 7. By becoming familiar with these steps you will become more efficient and will be able to perform them quicker. The faster you can get through steps 4 through 7 the quicker you will get going.
You need to give the engine what it wants! Understand that the choke will give the engine a rich mixture and the hot start will give the engine a lean mixture. If you have kicked the engine several times during a cold starting procedure and it still won't start, maybe it has too much fuel. Don't be afraid to push the choke back in and use the hot start, even though the engine is cold, this will give the engine a lean mixture and that might be just what it wants.
Again, make sure you don't go more than an inch or two past the hard spot when setting up your kick, and return the kick tarter all the way to the top, especially on the 250F. This will ensure that you get a proper kick and make your race day more enjoyable.
Tip # 18 Save your grips
By putting a nickel inside the handle bar grip before putting the grip on saves the edge of the grip by giving it a flatter surface when it digs in the dirt during a fall.
